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Going Wild For Turkey

Suzanne Corbett | Nov 2, 2011, 10:07 a.m.
Happy Thanksgiving!

It’s turkey season. Beyond the seasonal sales on frozen turkeys, it’s wild Missouri turkey season and hunters are out in force in hopes of bagging a Thanksgiving bird.

“Any place where there’s woods you can find wild turkeys,” said Dan Zarlenga, Missouri Department of Conservation’s Media Specialist. “Throughout Missouri the numbers of wild turkeys have been increasing over, the years so it’s no surprise you’ll see them along the roadside or even in your own backyard.”

According to Zarlenga, Missouri is considered one of the best areas in the country for wild turkeys. Out of Missouri’s 114 counties, Jefferson County ranks 20th with 728 wild turkeys harvested with neighboring Franklin County topping state totals with 1200.

“Missouri is a hot spot for wild turkeys because we have a habitat that’s prefect for them. This, combined with our conservation efforts to manage the population, has made turkeys flourish in Missouri,” said Zarlenga.

Turkey season for firearms ended October 31. Archery turkey season in Missouri started on September 15 and continues until November 11, breaking for firearms dear season. The season picks up once again on November 23 and runs until January 15. Missouri Conservation can provide hunting information as well as hunting permits and the turkey tags hunters will need for this year’s hunt.

For those who don’t hunt there are options. Order a wild turkey online. D’Artagnan, a company that specializes in gourmet foods, natural and organic meats, offers wild turkeys and heritage 19th century breed birds. Both birds are a treat for the holiday table.

“Our wild turkeys are raised in a semi-controled environment of fields and woods, which are then carefully harvested,” said Lily Hodge, D’Artagnan, Director of Pubic Relations who explained that within the U.S. it’s illegal to sell shot game. “Our birds are the same wild turkey breeds that hunters harvest. And, like all wild turkeys, these birds are smaller and skinnier and have a darker meat with a rich, complex flavor.”

Wild turkeys and heritage turkeys, as the Bronze and Bourbon Red, were popular in the1800’s, have become popular with home cooking with the Slow Food movement that embraces traditional and the historic methods of food production. Both wild and heritage turkeys as Hodge have a smaller meat to bone ratio. To make sure you have enough to serve your guest, with enough leftovers for sandwiches, I plan on 1 1/2 pounds per person when serving wild or heritage turkey. For example, a twelve-pound wild turkey will serve eight.

D’Artagnan has provided its recipe for Roasted Wild Turkey with Apple Sausage Dressing. For more recipes or to order a wild or heritage turkey for your holiday click on www.dartagnan.com. Meanwhile, Missouri bow hunters stalking turkey for the table can get more information by contacting the Missouri Conservation Department online at www.mdc.mo.gov., where you can also order a copy of Cooking Wild In Missouri, by Bernadette Dryden, published by the Conservation Department, which feature several recipes for wild turkey.

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Roasted Wild Turkey

Roasted Wild / Heritage Turkey with Apple Sausage Dressing

(Recipe courtesy D’Artagnan)

1 (8- to 11-pound) wild or heritage turkey

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

 2 carrots, peeled and sliced

 2 ribs celery, sliced

 1 medium onion, sliced

1 small parsnip, peeled and chopped

1 bay leaf

 6 garlic cloves, peeled


1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

3 whole juniper berries

3 1/2 Tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 cups sweet apple cider

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups chicken stock

The day before: Season turkey inside and out with salt and pepper. Truss turkey with kitchen twine and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat oven to 500 degrees.  Put carrots, celery, onion, parsnip, bay leaf, garlic, peppercorns, and juniper berries in a heavy roasting pan large enough to hold the turkey. Rub turkey all over with 11/2 tablespoons of the butter, then place on top of vegetables. Put turkey in oven, reduce heat to 325 F, and roast uncovered for 45 minutes, basting frequently with remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Pour apple cider into pan and cover turkey loosely with aluminum foil. Continue roasting for 45 minutes more, basting every 15 minutes. About 40 minutes before turkey is done roasting, put stuffing in oven.

Uncover turkey and roast 10 to 15 minutes to brown skin further. Drumsticks should move easily in the sockets, and meat should measure 180 to 185 F, when a thermometer is inserted into deepest part of thigh. Do not overcook. Transfer turkey to serving platter and cover with foil. Pour off excess fat from roasting pan, leaving cider and pan drippings. Place pan over medium heat and stir in flour. Cook flour 3 to 4 minutes, stirring constantly. Pour in stock and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer until gravy is thickened, about 10 to 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then strain into a bowl, and serve with turkey and dressing.

Apple Sausage Dressing

3/4 cup dark raisins

 3 cups sweet apple cider

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

 1 cup sliced celery

1 cup diced onion

 1 pound fresh fennel-spiced pork sausage, casing removed

 2 crisp, tart apples, such as gala or Granny Smith, peeled and diced

4 fresh sage leaves, finely chopped, or 1 teaspoon dried sage leaves

 4 cups cubes day-old sourdough bread


1/2 teaspoon kosher salt and 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste

For dressing: Preheat oven to 325F. Combine raisins and apple cider in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and set aside to plump.  Melt butter in a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add celery and onion and cook until vegetables have softened, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add sausage to vegetables. Sauté until meat is well browned, about 5 minutes, using a wooden spoon to break up meat into small pieces. Stir in apples and sage, and sauté 5 minutes. Stir in bread cubes. Season with salt and pepper, and add the cider and raisins. Bring liquid to a boil, cover, and bake for 25 minutes, stirring once halfway through. Remove cover, stir, and serve. 

Editor’s note: Because wild turkeys are leaner with denser flesh than their domesticated relatives, rub plenty of butter into the flesh before roasting, and then baste it often. Another tip: By leaving the turkey uncovered in the refrigerator, the skin tightens and becomes very crisp. The bird roasts directly on the vegetables. These caramelized vegetables and cider then become a savory sauce.

Wild Turkey Dropped Biscuit Pie

(Cooking Wild In Missouri, by Bernadette Dryden, published by the Conservation Department)

3 – 4 pounds wild turkey meat, uncooked

Sauce:

3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons flour

1 cup cream

Dough:

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 tablespoons butter

1 egg, beaten

1 cup milk

coarsely ground black pepper

Cover turkey meat with water and bring to a boil. Turn down heat and simmer until tender. Remove meat from broth, cool and cut into 1-inch chucks or shreds if preferred. Reserve broth.

To make sauce: In a medium saucepan melt butter, whisk in flour and stir until well combined. Add 3 cups reserved turkey broth and cream. Whisk and salt to taste. It will be quite thin but will thicken when baked with turkey. Pour sauce over turkey. Pour into a baking lightly greased dish.

To make biscuit dough: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine flour, salt and baking powder in a medium bowl and stir well. Rub 2 tablespoons butter into flour mixture until combined. Add egg and milk; mix well. Drop batter by heaping tablespoonfuls (12-16) over entire surface area of turkey mixture. Bake for approximately 1 hour or move until biscuits are nicely browned. (Sauce thickens nicely if you allow the dish to cool for a few minutes before serving.) Grind a few twists of fresh black pepper on top and serve. Makes 4 servings.

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