Modesto Celebrates Ten Years of Small Plates and Big Flavors
Suzanne Corbett | Jul 26, 2011, 12:17 p.m.
Modesto’s creator Brendan Marsden could have been compared to a windmill chasing Don Quixote when he decided to open a non-Italian restaurant in the middle of The Hill.
“At the beginning people were a little unsure and didn’t understand what we were about,” said Marsden, reflecting back ten years earlier when he opened Modesdo Tapas Bar & Restaurant, which some first confused a tapas bar for a Mexican topless bar. “Tapas bars then were a rarity.”
For the record tapas are small plates that originated in Spain, designed as a light meal or snack to eat with a glass of wine. As legend has it, Spanish innkeepers would greet incoming stagecoach passengers with a glass of wine covered (tapa is covered in Spanish) with a slice of bread often topped with cheese or other savories. Modesto was among the first tapas bars that opened in St Louis and today remains the longest running tapas operation in St Louis.
“When we first opened, people really didn’t eat tapas or even know about small plates,” said Marsden, whose tapas concept in 2001 was considered just a culinary trend that has since evolved into a mainstay foodie favorite. “It’s a different style of eating and at the time there wasn’t anything like us in St. Louis.”
July 2011 marked our tenth anniversary for Modesto with adding several new tapas to its menu created by Modesto’s Executive Chef Grace Dinsmoor, who has overseen the kitchen and developed its menu since it opened. When asked what’s the secret to creating to Chef Grace said,
“I love to contrast flavors and textures. But it’s working with the traditional Spanish ingredients and flavor elements as olive oils, tomato and garlic and the best Spanish ingredients that I find exciting.”
Chef Grace’s new anniversary tapas include Paquetes de Berenjenas (grilled eggplant rolls with Lbérico cheeses and herb picada), Pinchos de Vieiras (grilled scallop skewers with Pedro Ximénez glaze and Marcona almonds), Croquetas de Setas (creamy mushroom and garlic croquettes), Churros de Tocino (bacon and chive chorros with Spanish cheese fondue.) and Entrcot a la Plancha (grilled bread topped with sliced rib-eye and Manchego cheese. Modesto fans can expect to see many of the original tapas still featured on the menu as the marinated Spanish olives, Ajo Frito (fried garlic cloves with paprika and aioli) and this foodie’s top tapas pick - the bacon wrapped cheese-stuffed dates.
We’ve had customers that have supported us from the beginning,” said Marsden, relating how the menu offers diversity within its Spanish culinary boundaries. “There’s always something different to try because Grace is always creating new dishes. We both have taken pleasure being able to introduce our customers to so many authentic and newly inspired Spanish items.”
Among those authentic foods, Modesto’s unique collection of Charcuterîa (cured meats and sausages) and Spanish cheese that can be combined to make our own sampling plate, an opportunity to sample Jamon Serrno, a 12 month aged dry cured ham or the dry-cured Ib´rico pork loin. Pair with Manchego cheese and a bottle of Spanish wine from Modesto’s extensive wine list.
Hungry for a large plate – no problem; check out the daily special as well as one of the renown Spanish classics as Arroz con Pollo, the chicken and saffron rice flavored with Serrano bacon, peppers and tomatoes or the Paella Mixta, considered Spain’s national dish that mixes its signature golden saffron flavored rice with chicken, shrimp mussels, clams, chorizo and vegetable.
Don’t forget dessert. Top picks, the traditional Flan, the Churros with Chocolate sauce and the Pastel de Tres Leches (three milk sponge cake topped with berries).
Modesto’s appeal allows one to explore the world of tapas without breaking the bank. “Our appeal is you can dine on any budget,” Said Marsden. “Order a small plate or two or come in and sample a little or a lot with friends. That’s what tapas is all about.”
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